Quiet fall day in Averill

The day dawned cold, gray, and wet. I took the option of a sleep-in which only broke when Alan came in with an open-faced egg, ham 'n cheese sandwich to tempt me into the kitchen. It still being cold and gray, I then got back under the covers! Read until noon when I was shamed into emerging from the bedroom. To be fair, I was completing a really good novel -- Black Cherry Blues by James Lee Burke. I have read later novels in the series but this one is early and very engrossing. So far this trip, I have read four books and one New Yorker cover-to-cover.

After we got back from fishing yesterday, I made a yellow-split-pea soup with onions and carrots from Hans' garden plus garlic, summer savory, salt and pepper. It turned out pretty well if I do say so myself. We had it last night for dinner and then again today at lunch (it was that kind of day). Afterwards, we dropped by Quimby's and had a nice chat with Kevin. Rain continued on and off, pretty much eliminating hiking as an option, so we decided to take a drive over to Lewis Pond.

After Gaudette Rd ended, the road was in poor condition with some stretches verging on a complete washout. Suffice it to say that the heavy recent rains have not been kind to dirt roads. But we made it through to the Vermont section of the Silvio Conte Wildlife National Fish and Wildlife Refuge and the roads got better. It was cold at Lewis Pond -- 8 degrees celsius -- with a brisk wind. Even brisker up on the overlook. Clouds were passing a high speeds, the sun periodically peeking out, and distant mountains encased in mist. rom the overlook, you really get the sense that you are in the Nulhegan basin, in a watershed. It's a great viewpoint.

As we left, though, the day was waning and we were eager to get out of the forest before twilight. Heading south we passed some large logging operations on the way to Rte 105 and the rain started again, making the dirt roads slippery. We made it safely, though, and on Rte 116 heading to Norton we saw perhaps the best rainbow of either of our lives. It was perfect, it was clear, and it was an entire arch. Too big to capture with the camera. And it went away in a flash -- sun went behind a cloud and it was gone. One minute there, the next gone.

Beautiful sunset finished the day and we headed home for a fire and supper. And the first NHL game of the season.

Last fishing day of 2010 with Bill

For our last day of 2010 fishing with Bill, we knew we wanted to wade the Connecticut. Water flows were up, temperatures down = a recipe for landlocked salmon of the larger variety. 8am rendezvous at Lopstick and the plan was on.

We were sort of a ragtag mob heading to the river. Under waders, I was sporting my "lily of the valley" flannel PJs, while Alan had on the Santa red flannel bottoms. It had been so warm back in Averill (about 60) that I hadn't had the strength of mind to put on my capilenes -- a decision I would regret! We headed down to the river underneath charcoal grey skies that in lower temperatures would have promised snow.

My rod was rigged (caddis with a dropper) so I started out first and got a small salmon on an early cast (she took the dry). In what was the become a pattern of the day, I missed a boatload of fish (we both did) and, unusually, we hooked the big ones and missed the small. A small male brookie followed the salmon before Alan even got started. Once he got going, though, he landed three nicely sized salmon, about 18" and fat. The higher river flows had flushed them out.

The water temperature was 54 degrees, perfect for trout but much less ideal for humans. Really wished I had those capilenes....and wool socks. Fortunately, we did have rain gear, as the day decided to deliver a bout of showers midway through the morning--it was a late fall morning as can only happen in the early fall on the Connecticut. And the glare was unreal--the sky was this mottled grey that as it was reflected in the water was positively hypnotizing. One minute you say the fly, the next you were finding your footing as water and sky melt together. It's a wonder that we caught any fish, but between Alan's salmon and a beautiful female that I landed (same size range), we had an exceptional day of salmon fishing.

The area we fish is otherworldly. Even when you're there, you can't believe it. And ultimately the fish make it real as does the company we share with each other. Some may wonder about the rejuvenation that some place so wild can provide, but it is quite real, and quite electric. We finished the day at Happy Corner, as we have so many great Connecticut days, and bid Bill farewell for 2010. A great morning, a great place, a great guide, great fish, and ourselves in place. Magic.

From the earth

This day profoundly reminded us from where we get our food -- the earth.

Mid-morning, we went back over to Hans's to help him harvest the last of his vegetable garden and to receive some lovely bounty in return. From the garden there were baby yellow squash that you would pay $5.99/lb for at Whole Foods plus swiss chard, beets, and the most amazing stalks of brussel sprouts that required a saw to hack off. In the greenhouse, there were still some heirloom tomatoes and in the garage, potatoes and carrots. We won't have to shop for any veggies this week! A vegetable garden is such an amazing thing.

After a brief lunch, we headed over to Colebrook via Caanan Hill Rd which was regraded this year. Lots of traffic on the road today as we passed through the yellow haze of fall leaves (not much red this year or right now). More houses up here than ever -- more houses in the north country than ever -- makes you wonder about the economy, financing, all of the above.

Arrived at the Two Sparrows Orchard which is just east of Colebrook off Rte 26. We came here two years ago about two weeks earlier in the season and got the most amazing Paula Reds, which are the best applesauce apple ever. This year, we got Macs and Cortlands. A bag for Priscilla, a bag for Hans, and a bag for us. Yum, they are delicious. Gorgeous day, lots of sunshine and high clouds. Lake is lapping, however....

Nice long walk down Jackson Rd this afternoon, saw a few trucks but no real traffic. Got back to the house and the sunset looked promising, so we jumped in the car and headed up Brousseau Mt Rd. Up on sunset hill, we had company -- Suzy and Peter Chapman and their two dogs!

Back at the house, Alan took the lead on a curry-infused beer chicken, while I made mashed potatoes and roasted carrots and onions. A great day that reminds us all of where we get our sustenance from.

Side note -- Pulled Edna Ferber's So Big from the shelves when I got here and am captivated once again by this Pulitzer-prize winning novel. What a picture of the times set against the vagaries of parents-ambition for children...or vice versa. A great and readable book.

First Day at Camp

Wonderful first day at camp on our last trip of the year. This one feels extra-special because it's a 10-dayer, so it promises the possibility of rejuvenation as only camp can offer. We arrived amidst the remnants of what was clearly the drenching of the summer. Coming from Montreal, we passed through North Hatley where the picnic benches and gazebo sat fully 6' into the lake. The Coaticook River was roaring its way north, having clearly reached the top of its banks the day before.

Today dawned cool and sunny, a brilliant if cool fall day. Tons of sun, remnants of foliage. Gary, a friend and classmate of Alan's from Dartmouth, came up for the day with his two youngest and we had a great day visiting, eating, walking, and fishing. Youngest son Gordon sported a Fenwick 5 1/2" fiberglass rod with a mid-70s vintage Penn reel. For such a young caster, a sweet little rod that he put to good use. He tried his tricks and talents on the dam and at Big Rock. No fish, but the promise of future fishing adventures clearly loomed for Gordon. Daughter Cora quietly surveyed the scene and took it all in. A true girl of the north country, we talked of the Indian Stream Republic, as well as the history of logging on the Averill Lakes. Laura, Gary's wife, is lucky to have had such precocious students in her home schooling efforts.

Visiting with Gary was a joy from memories of the Providence GD show to adventures 4-wheeling in the Berkshires, lots of great stories and a good friend. We had a wonderful walk down to Big Rock amidst the just past peak autumn foliage and then back to camp for some Coaticook maple ice cream. All agreed it was the best ever. Gary, like Alan, never could have maple walnut ice cream, but Coaticook's maple is the real deal.

As Gary returned to Johnson, I got the great idea to go for an early evening fall canoe cruise. The water was a bit cold getting in but nothing bad and the canoe ride was lovely. Views of Mt Averill revealed a stately lady with her colors just past. The Snares camp is shut up and the boats away. Lake very quiet and lovely evening colors.

Eveningwise, we headed up the hill to Hans's for a drink in his sun room. He proudly privisioned us with homemade cassis and pinot grigio -- yum. And we enjoyed a nice sunset and turkeys on the lawn, along with good conversation with a good friend.